Time Out

Athens

## Eating & drinking

Eating out is very much a part of Greek culture, and the balmy summer evenings are ideal for enjoying a meal outside in a leafy garden or overlooking the moonlit waves along the coast. Eating at traditional tavernas and mezedopolia is a must-do; unquestionably one of the best experiences to be had in Greece. Both serve the hearty, deeply flavourful dishes based on the precepts that have governed Greek cooking for centuries: fresh, seasonal ingredients, lots of extra virgin olive oil, local cheeses and a few fragrant herbs and spices.
There are three main types of dishes available. You’ll start with a selection of salates (salads) and orektika (appetizers), a category that includes the dozens of aromatic dips like tzatziki, and small plates of cooked vegetables, like kolokithokeftedes (fried courgette-and-potato balls) or mavromatakia (marinated black-eyed peas). Main courses include simply grilled or roasted meat and fish, but vegetarians (or just those who don’t want slabs of meat at every meal) should be sure to inquire about mageirefta (cooked stews, vegetable dishes, and casseroles, such as briam and moussaka). All this is accompanied with carafes of hima (local barrel wine). If you’re in the mood to sample dozens of dishes in one sitting – and to drink a lot – head to a mezedopolion. These serve mezes, lots of small dishes, rather than large main courses, meant as much as an accompaniment to wine, ouzo (the aniseed-flavoured spirit distilled from the remains of grapes from the wine press) and gossip, as sustenance.
Athens has three Michelin-starred restaurants, none of which are particularly central. Vardis (Hotel Pentelikon, Deliyianni 66, Kifisia, +302106230650) was the first, and still serves pull-out-all-the-stops classic French cuisine. Another, Varoulko, moves to the beach during the summer months, and becomes Moorings-Varoulko (Vouliagmeni Marina, Vouliagmeni, +302104112043), complete with excellent seafood fusion in tow. Spondi (Pyrronos 5, Pangrati (+302107520658) also offers food with a creative twist, and is famous for its truffle-based dishes.
In Athens’ Historic Centre, Athinaikon (Themistokleous 2, +302103838485) is the local institution for those wanting a budget meze feast. Platanos (Diogenous 4, Plaka , +30210322 0666) is another budget option, and offers the traditional Greek Taverna Experience, with a 1940s-ish feel. Mamacas (Persefonis 41, Thisio, +302103464984) again traditional Greek fare, is a firm favourite with the young and trendy brigade. Apla Aristera-Dexia (Tzaferi 11, Rouf, +302103422380) is currently only open during the summer months, and offers modern, creative Greek food in an enjoyable open-air setting.

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